Category Archives: Food and Restaurants

Best Boulangeries in the Haute Marais

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You can’t walk a block without passing a boulangerie in most Parisian neighborhoods, and nothing beats that smell of fresh baked croissants wafting out onto the street. However, in case you believed otherwise, not all baguettes are created equal. And it’s a never ending escapade to taste many in order to discover the best ones around the city.

In one of our favorite neighborhoods, the Haute Marais, you’ll have to eat a baguette or croissant or croissant aux amandes every day to get through the list of delicious boulangeries you must try. Below are some off the top of our list, all within walking distance of landmarks like Place de la République, rue de Bretagne, and the Cirque d’Hiver.

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1. Paulin

38 rue Debelleyme
Paris 75003

From Tuesday to Saturday, 7:15 am to 8:15 pm
Sunday, 7:15am to 4:30pm

 

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2. 134 RDT

134 rue de Turenne
Paris 75003

From Monday to Friday, 7:15 am to 8:15 pm

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3. Chez Manon

25 rue de Bretagne
Paris 75003

From Monday to Saturday, 6:00 am to 8:00 pm

Our nearby apartments:

Two Bedroom, Two Bath Air Conditioned Marais Apartment

Two Bedroom, Two Bath Air Conditioned Bretagne Apartment

Two Bedroom, One Bath Haute Marais Apartment

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E. Dehillerin Through the Lense of Hindsvik Shop

 

dehil01_920Check out these great pictures and more of the iconic kitchen wares store E. Dehillerin on rue Montmartre near what used to be Paris most important food market for the city’s restauranteurs, les Halles. More heredehil08

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Les Enfants Rouges of Rue de Bretagne

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Markets pop up every day around Paris, in different locations throughout the week. Vendors sell cherries by the kilo or several varieties of juicy pears, depending on the season. Never ending piles of delicious produce–fresh for eating and colorful for picture taking.

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The French are known for their specialty shopping, getting their cheese at the fromagerie, their bread at the boulangerie and their meat at the butcher. And on top of the open air markets listed in the link above, there are also a few covered markets around the city. The oldest one, located behind the storefronts on rue de Bretagne in the 3rd arrondissement (the Haute Marais), is the Marché des Enfants Rouges. Not only the oldest covered market in Paris, it is one of the oldest in all of France.

Here’s a picture from back in the day.

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One of the best things about this market, aside from it’s prime location, is the picnic style eateries that have opened inside. Alongside the produce market are a collection of food stands with all kinds of different cuisines: Japanese, Moroccan, Italian, Crêpes…

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All of which can be enjoyed at the picnic tables that line the stands. Have a glass of wine, in a nice to-go plastic cup, of course! And enjoy your meal at the shared tables in this little pocket of historical Paris that has become one of the city’s contemporary gems.

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And afterwards, what better way to digest than to browse the boutiques of rue Charlot?

Check out some of these rentals around the corner from les Enfants Rouges:

Haute Marais Apartment

Marais Charlot Apartment

Marais Bretagne Apartment

Photos: pietondeparis

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La Jeune Rue

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Paris is full of farm fresh produce markets, butchers and fromageries, but there are only a few places where you get the feeling of quality combined with community infused in local farmer’s markets of French villages outside of the capital. Investor Cédric Naudon took it upon himself to create such an environment in Paris, where the best of design and gastronomy combine for a quintessential Parisian experience: quality and aestheticism in all things. Naudon purchased and redesigned, in collaboration with renowned creatives including chefs, artists and industrial designers, a collection of 20+  store fronts in Paris’ 3rd arrondissement that will be home to a group of artisanal  entertainment, design shops, and food stores.

Located on rue Vertbois, the zonehas been dubbed La Jeune Rue. Opening in two rounds, the first this spring and the second later this fall, the shops are clustered together on the main street and will span down the cross street, rue Volta, and up rue Notre Dame de Nazareth.

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Wishing to expand from his first restaurant endeavor, Le Sergent Recruteur, on the Île Saint-Louis, the project of La Jeune Rue snowballed from the one envisioned restaurant into a few, then a collection, and now a small movement. The buzz began at the beginning of the year with an exploratory press event in January and will certainly continue as visitors discover and return to see the new openings throughout the year.

Here is a list of locations and collaborators so far:

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Check it out for a special and uniquely Parisian adventure around the corner from the Marais!

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le Heures Heureuse de Paris


Les Heures Heureuses

Take a culinary tour Paris by visiting participating restaurants in the Happy Hours of Paris! By picking up a passbook at this list of locations, including the town halls of each arrondissement and at the Hotel de Ville, you have access to 2 euro samplings of specialties from about 285 eateries around the city.

“Prepare your route to sample small bites during l’apéro, for 2 euro!” They announce on the homepage.

L’apéro is short for l’aperitif, which refers to a gathering around cocktails and small bites before dinner time. The ‘Happy Hour’ lasts from 6pm-8pm and will extend through Saturday for a full day, 11am-11pm at the Cité de la Mode et du Design near gare d’Austerlitz. 

 

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To navigate the site: Here you have a list of all the neighborhoods (arrondissements)  with the number of participating eateries:

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And when you click on the neighborhood you want to explore, you’ll see a map showing you the locations of each restaurant:


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Like these, near our Haute Marais apartments centered in the map above.

Finally, You’ll be able to click through each of the participants to check out what they’re offering. You’ll see the sample in bold type, at the center of the page like here below: “Mousse de burrata à la truffle et gelée de champignons” So you can see they’re pulling out all the stops to impress you, and hopefully you discover a new place to go back to and try more of the menu!Screen Shot 2014-05-21 at 9.11.02 AM

 

Bon Appétit!

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Festival of Bread!

It’s hard to come to France and not marvel over the delicious bread at every meal, but not all baguettes are created equal. The artisanal process of creating the perfect baguette is one of great pride, which one can appreciate the first time you bite into a perfect, weightless combination of crispiness and doughiness.

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To see how it’s done, and to celebrate the craft and emblematic symbol of French culture, get out and explore during the festival of bread! The Fête du Pain, celebrated across all of France, will take place from the 8-18th of May, planned around the national day honoring Saint Honoré, the patron saint of bakers, May 16.

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In Paris, the square in front of Notre Dame will be the site of a great tent under which artisan bakers, or boulangers, will give demonstrations on how to create the perfect loaf. In addition to the traditional main land French breads, this year’s special focus will be the traditional breads of Réunion, a French island east of Madagascar. There will be presentations, tastings, and activities all through the day, so stop in and see what you can discover…and taste!

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While the festival is going on at Notre Dame, boulangeries all around Paris will be celebrating with their own tastings, demonstrations and activities from the 12th-18th of May. Be sure to ask your local boulangerie about their agenda and participation and join in on the festivities!

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baguettes / Jarkko Laine via Flickr CC License By

 

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La Grande Mosquée de Paris

 

In the 5th arrondissement, just behind the Jardin de Plantes and the Natural History

Museum, you will find an amazing architectural and cultural treasure of Paris. The Grande

Mosque was completed in 1926, built to honor the Muslim participation on behalf of the

French in the First World War, and is still active as a place of prayer, community, and

wellness.

View of the Minaret from inside the Mosque

View of the Minaret from inside the Mosque

Comprised of three sections, the prayer room, the hammam, and the café, the mosque serves

as much as a spiritual focal base for the Muslim community in Paris, but also as a place of

relaxation and of socializing. While the prayer room is open only to practicing Muslims, the

hammam and café can be visited freely, or with a guided tour.

The central courtyard

The central courtyard

The mosque provides a step inside an important part of French history, and its relationship

with its former colonies, that goes often overlooked. For this, visiting with a guide can

provide helpful context and insight. It is also a place of architectural departure to the orient

from the western architecture of Paris. Every element of the structure, from its grand

minaret and interior courtyard and garden, to the ornate plaster moldings and colorful tile

designs, is directly influenced by the architecture of Mediterranean Africa.

If you are a history buff, or an architecture lover looking to experience a less Haussmannian

version of Paris, or just have a sweet tooth, this should be on your list. Take time during

your stay to go on a quick tour of the grounds, and then relax in the café enjoying an array of

North African Pastries to accompany your sweet mint tea. You’ll leave the building feeling as

if you’ve just returned from an exotic vacation to your home away from home in Paris.

Fountains and courtyard garden in Grande Mosquée de Paris

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How to order like a native in Parisian Cafés

Between all of the walking and cultural sight-seeing, a nice break in one of Paris’ iconic cafés can be just what you need to recoup for round two. Choosing a café is easy enough, but choosing what and knowing how to order takes some getting used to.

 

Here are a couple of tips to order like a native:

 

After beginning with a “Bonjour”…

 

Un Café: A single espresso

How to order it: “un kah-fey

 

Un Décafiéné, or un Déca: A Decaf single Espresso

How to order it: “un dey-kah

 

Café Allongé: An espresso with double the hot water. It translates to ‘elongated coffee.’ Think of an Americano. You will sometimes be served an espresso with a small pitcher of hot water to add to your taste.

How to order it: “un ah-lon-jey

 

Café Noisette: An espresso with a dollop of cream. It’s called a ‘hazelnut’ because of it’s coloring.

How to order it: “un no-ah-zet

 

Café Crème: An espresso with hot cream.

How to order it: “un krehm

 

Café au Lait: An espresso with steamed milk. Depending on the place, a café au lait might be served with a small pitcher of steamed milk on the side for you to add to your taste.

How to order it: “un krehm

 

Chocolat Chaud: Hot Chocolate.

How to order it: “sh-oh-ko-lah sho

 

Thé: Hot tea.

How to order it: “un tey”

 

And of course always end with “S’il vous plait!”

Cafe de Flore

Cafe de Flore

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Pastry 101

Picture this: You fly all the way to Paris and you enter a French bakery and see an array of mouthwatering pastries in front of you. You know you want one but you need more information to select the right pastry for you. If someone could just tell you what was in them and what they were called, you would be in pastry heaven. Alas, you don’t speak French and even if you did the woman serving you is French and may be culturally opposed to helping you. Fortunately, you can choose and recognize French pastries without having studied abroad.

Let’s begin with the most simple one. The Croissant is essentially a crescent shaped roll. It is unadulterated bread and nothing fancy despite being being flaky, buttery, and delicious. Remember the croissant by its shape- crescent moon.  Crescent sounds like croissant. The croissant is where simple approaches sublime.

  • croissant- kwa-ssah – crescent moon shaped – just breadCroissant

The next pastry is breakfast for chocolate lovers.  The Pain au Chocolat, or bread with chocolate in English, is not a chocolate croissant because it is not crescent shaped. It is a bread roll with two sticks of chocolate hidden inside. How can you recognize the shy Pain au Chocolat hiding its amazing filling among the other treats? If you examine the sides of the rolls, you will see the two sticks of chocolate peeking out and you have a winner.

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Pain au Chocolat

For those of us who like something more elaborate, there is the Pain aux Raisins- bread with raisins. This one is easy to recognize for a couple of reasons, 1. you can see the raisins on top and 2. it is round.

pain aux raisins – pan o ray-zahn- round raisiny breadPain aux Raisins

There is a final alternative:

You may have heard that French women don’t get fat. They also don’t eat many pastries.

The last, sad choice is not to eat a crescent shaped croissant, a pain au chocolat that almost hides its chocolate center, or a round, raisiny pain aux raisins although I wouldn’t recommend it.

French women don't get fat

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Best Bakery in Paris – Macarons: Laduree vs Pierre Herme

Macarons are among the most indulgent Parisian sweet treats.  They are divine little baked sandwiches composed of two delicate halves whose texture lies somewhere between meringue and dense biscuit filled with jam or creamy spread.  The classic flavors are caramel, pistachio, chocolate, vanilla and raspberry, but more exotic variations can be found from rose to foie-gras.  While they are available in many patisseries in Paris, two establishments in particular have built their stellar reputations on their macarons.

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Laduree is a venerable institution which first introduced macaroons in 1893.  While the macarons are their signature dessert, Laduree also makes beautiful cakes of all varieties which they serve in a handful of ornate tea rooms in Paris. For take-out, the treats come packaged in pastel and gold boxes which are works of art themselves.  The picturesque cakes and macaroons in Sofia Coppola’s film, Marie Antoinette, were made by Laduree and the patisserie even released some special edition flavors to commemorate the opening of the film.

Pierre Herme is Laduree’s esteemed, if much younger, rival.  Despite his renown today for fabulously “French” pastries, Pierre Herme actually opened his first boutique in Tokyo in 2001. Bringing a Japanese aesthetic and following with him, he made a splash in Paris by offering macarons in a dizzying range of colors and flavors including a bright red, gold dusted, foie-gras flavored Christmas special.  Pierre Herme is largely responsible for the recent macarons renaissance.

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Both Laduree’s classic macarons and Pierre Herme’s zanier varieties are delectable.  The classic grande dame Laduree and the adventurous upstart Pierre Herme have outposts on rue Bonaparte in St Germain des Pres in easy walking distance of each other.  The geographic proximity invites a taste test and as the macarons are quite small, a sampling of 4-6 is an ideal accompaniment to afternoon tea.  While Pierre Herme is take-out only, Laduree also serves a luxurious afternoon tea in their tea room.  It is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon after a long walk or a visit to the nearby Musee d’Orsay but it can be quite expensive and often requires a waiting for a table.  Alternatively, buy the macarons at the counter and bring them back to your apartment or, even better, enjoy them while sitting on the quais while people-watching.

Should you wish to bring a taste of Paris back home, they also make a wonderful Parisian gift and keep well on long plane journeys plus an extra day or two in the fridge.

Ladurée Bonaparte
21 rue Bonaparte-75006 Paris
Tel : 01.44.07.64.87
Open every day from 8.30am to 7.30pm
On Saturdays from 8.30am to 8.30pm. On Sundays from 10am to 7.30pm

Pierre Hermé
72, rue Bonaparte-75006 PARIS
Tel : 01. 43. 54. 47. 77
Open every day from 10am to 7pm
On Saturdays until 7:30pm

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