Tag Archives: foodie

Best Boulangeries in the Haute Marais

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You can’t walk a block without passing a boulangerie in most Parisian neighborhoods, and nothing beats that smell of fresh baked croissants wafting out onto the street. However, in case you believed otherwise, not all baguettes are created equal. And it’s a never ending escapade to taste many in order to discover the best ones around the city.

In one of our favorite neighborhoods, the Haute Marais, you’ll have to eat a baguette or croissant or croissant aux amandes every day to get through the list of delicious boulangeries you must try. Below are some off the top of our list, all within walking distance of landmarks like Place de la République, rue de Bretagne, and the Cirque d’Hiver.

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1. Paulin

38 rue Debelleyme
Paris 75003

From Tuesday to Saturday, 7:15 am to 8:15 pm
Sunday, 7:15am to 4:30pm

 

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2. 134 RDT

134 rue de Turenne
Paris 75003

From Monday to Friday, 7:15 am to 8:15 pm

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3. Chez Manon

25 rue de Bretagne
Paris 75003

From Monday to Saturday, 6:00 am to 8:00 pm

Our nearby apartments:

Two Bedroom, Two Bath Air Conditioned Marais Apartment

Two Bedroom, Two Bath Air Conditioned Bretagne Apartment

Two Bedroom, One Bath Haute Marais Apartment

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E. Dehillerin Through the Lense of Hindsvik Shop

 

dehil01_920Check out these great pictures and more of the iconic kitchen wares store E. Dehillerin on rue Montmartre near what used to be Paris most important food market for the city’s restauranteurs, les Halles. More heredehil08

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Les Enfants Rouges of Rue de Bretagne

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Markets pop up every day around Paris, in different locations throughout the week. Vendors sell cherries by the kilo or several varieties of juicy pears, depending on the season. Never ending piles of delicious produce–fresh for eating and colorful for picture taking.

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The French are known for their specialty shopping, getting their cheese at the fromagerie, their bread at the boulangerie and their meat at the butcher. And on top of the open air markets listed in the link above, there are also a few covered markets around the city. The oldest one, located behind the storefronts on rue de Bretagne in the 3rd arrondissement (the Haute Marais), is the Marché des Enfants Rouges. Not only the oldest covered market in Paris, it is one of the oldest in all of France.

Here’s a picture from back in the day.

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One of the best things about this market, aside from it’s prime location, is the picnic style eateries that have opened inside. Alongside the produce market are a collection of food stands with all kinds of different cuisines: Japanese, Moroccan, Italian, Crêpes…

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All of which can be enjoyed at the picnic tables that line the stands. Have a glass of wine, in a nice to-go plastic cup, of course! And enjoy your meal at the shared tables in this little pocket of historical Paris that has become one of the city’s contemporary gems.

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And afterwards, what better way to digest than to browse the boutiques of rue Charlot?

Check out some of these rentals around the corner from les Enfants Rouges:

Haute Marais Apartment

Marais Charlot Apartment

Marais Bretagne Apartment

Photos: pietondeparis

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Pastry 101

Picture this: You fly all the way to Paris and you enter a French bakery and see an array of mouthwatering pastries in front of you. You know you want one but you need more information to select the right pastry for you. If someone could just tell you what was in them and what they were called, you would be in pastry heaven. Alas, you don’t speak French and even if you did the woman serving you is French and may be culturally opposed to helping you. Fortunately, you can choose and recognize French pastries without having studied abroad.

Let’s begin with the most simple one. The Croissant is essentially a crescent shaped roll. It is unadulterated bread and nothing fancy despite being being flaky, buttery, and delicious. Remember the croissant by its shape- crescent moon.  Crescent sounds like croissant. The croissant is where simple approaches sublime.

  • croissant- kwa-ssah – crescent moon shaped – just breadCroissant

The next pastry is breakfast for chocolate lovers.  The Pain au Chocolat, or bread with chocolate in English, is not a chocolate croissant because it is not crescent shaped. It is a bread roll with two sticks of chocolate hidden inside. How can you recognize the shy Pain au Chocolat hiding its amazing filling among the other treats? If you examine the sides of the rolls, you will see the two sticks of chocolate peeking out and you have a winner.

  • pain au chocolat- pan o sho ko lah- bread hiding sticks of chocolate inside

Pain au Chocolat

For those of us who like something more elaborate, there is the Pain aux Raisins- bread with raisins. This one is easy to recognize for a couple of reasons, 1. you can see the raisins on top and 2. it is round.

pain aux raisins – pan o ray-zahn- round raisiny breadPain aux Raisins

There is a final alternative:

You may have heard that French women don’t get fat. They also don’t eat many pastries.

The last, sad choice is not to eat a crescent shaped croissant, a pain au chocolat that almost hides its chocolate center, or a round, raisiny pain aux raisins although I wouldn’t recommend it.

French women don't get fat

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Best Bakery in Paris – Macarons: Laduree vs Pierre Herme

Macarons are among the most indulgent Parisian sweet treats.  They are divine little baked sandwiches composed of two delicate halves whose texture lies somewhere between meringue and dense biscuit filled with jam or creamy spread.  The classic flavors are caramel, pistachio, chocolate, vanilla and raspberry, but more exotic variations can be found from rose to foie-gras.  While they are available in many patisseries in Paris, two establishments in particular have built their stellar reputations on their macarons.

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Laduree is a venerable institution which first introduced macaroons in 1893.  While the macarons are their signature dessert, Laduree also makes beautiful cakes of all varieties which they serve in a handful of ornate tea rooms in Paris. For take-out, the treats come packaged in pastel and gold boxes which are works of art themselves.  The picturesque cakes and macaroons in Sofia Coppola’s film, Marie Antoinette, were made by Laduree and the patisserie even released some special edition flavors to commemorate the opening of the film.

Pierre Herme is Laduree’s esteemed, if much younger, rival.  Despite his renown today for fabulously “French” pastries, Pierre Herme actually opened his first boutique in Tokyo in 2001. Bringing a Japanese aesthetic and following with him, he made a splash in Paris by offering macarons in a dizzying range of colors and flavors including a bright red, gold dusted, foie-gras flavored Christmas special.  Pierre Herme is largely responsible for the recent macarons renaissance.

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Both Laduree’s classic macarons and Pierre Herme’s zanier varieties are delectable.  The classic grande dame Laduree and the adventurous upstart Pierre Herme have outposts on rue Bonaparte in St Germain des Pres in easy walking distance of each other.  The geographic proximity invites a taste test and as the macarons are quite small, a sampling of 4-6 is an ideal accompaniment to afternoon tea.  While Pierre Herme is take-out only, Laduree also serves a luxurious afternoon tea in their tea room.  It is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon after a long walk or a visit to the nearby Musee d’Orsay but it can be quite expensive and often requires a waiting for a table.  Alternatively, buy the macarons at the counter and bring them back to your apartment or, even better, enjoy them while sitting on the quais while people-watching.

Should you wish to bring a taste of Paris back home, they also make a wonderful Parisian gift and keep well on long plane journeys plus an extra day or two in the fridge.

Ladurée Bonaparte
21 rue Bonaparte-75006 Paris
Tel : 01.44.07.64.87
Open every day from 8.30am to 7.30pm
On Saturdays from 8.30am to 8.30pm. On Sundays from 10am to 7.30pm

Pierre Hermé
72, rue Bonaparte-75006 PARIS
Tel : 01. 43. 54. 47. 77
Open every day from 10am to 7pm
On Saturdays until 7:30pm

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