You can’t walk a block without passing a boulangerie in most Parisian neighborhoods, and nothing beats that smell of fresh baked croissants wafting out onto the street. However, in case you believed otherwise, not all baguettes are created equal. And it’s a never ending escapade to taste many in order to discover the best ones around the city.
In one of our favorite neighborhoods, the Haute Marais, you’ll have to eat a baguette or croissant or croissant aux amandes every day to get through the list of delicious boulangeries you must try. Below are some off the top of our list, all within walking distance of landmarks like Place de la République, rue de Bretagne, and the Cirque d’Hiver.
38 rue Debelleyme
From Tuesday to Saturday, 7:15 am to 8:15 pm
Sunday, 7:15am to 4:30pm
2. 134 RDT
134 rue de Turenne
From Monday to Friday, 7:15 am to 8:15 pm
3. Chez Manon
25 rue de Bretagne
From Monday to Saturday, 6:00 am to 8:00 pm
Our nearby apartments:
Two Bedroom, Two Bath Air Conditioned Marais Apartment
Two Bedroom, Two Bath Air Conditioned Bretagne Apartment
Two Bedroom, One Bath Haute Marais Apartment
Markets pop up every day around Paris, in different locations throughout the week. Vendors sell cherries by the kilo or several varieties of juicy pears, depending on the season. Never ending piles of delicious produce–fresh for eating and colorful for picture taking.
The French are known for their specialty shopping, getting their cheese at the fromagerie, their bread at the boulangerie and their meat at the butcher. And on top of the open air markets listed in the link above, there are also a few covered markets around the city. The oldest one, located behind the storefronts on rue de Bretagne in the 3rd arrondissement (the Haute Marais), is the Marché des Enfants Rouges. Not only the oldest covered market in Paris, it is one of the oldest in all of France.
Here’s a picture from back in the day.
One of the best things about this market, aside from it’s prime location, is the picnic style eateries that have opened inside. Alongside the produce market are a collection of food stands with all kinds of different cuisines: Japanese, Moroccan, Italian, Crêpes…
All of which can be enjoyed at the picnic tables that line the stands. Have a glass of wine, in a nice to-go plastic cup, of course! And enjoy your meal at the shared tables in this little pocket of historical Paris that has become one of the city’s contemporary gems.
And afterwards, what better way to digest than to browse the boutiques of rue Charlot?
Check out some of these rentals around the corner from les Enfants Rouges:
Haute Marais Apartment
Marais Charlot Apartment
Marais Bretagne Apartment
You’ll know from our post on the secret rose garden that we love the hidden passageways and short cuts that make navigating Paris like a architectural treasure hunt. One more connecting promenade that we fall in love with over and over again is the Hotel de Sully. Although with more conspicuous entrances, passing between Rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine and the Place des Vosges, it is rare that this verdant park ever feels crowded.
A certain refuge from the busy avenue that goes from Bastille down to become rue de Rivoli, the passageway from Faubourg Saint Antoine is quite imposing and feels like maybe you’re not allowed to go through there. This is one of the main reasons I credit for the minimal foot traffic, especially from the street side. From the park side, however, what you see is light coming through the doorway under the otherwise shaded arcades that encircle the place des Vosges.
You’ll see some gorgeous architectural details throughout. But do take your time to look at all the doors. They are all heavy and wooden, carved in and outfitted with giant sculpted door knockers. The picture below is the underside of a stairway next the the small bookstore between the stone courtyard and the garden.
If ever you are looking for a beautiful backdrop for family photos, or for a quieter place to enjoy a sandwich from Paul or Miss Manon (both near the Hotel de Sully entrance on rue Faubourg Saint Antoine), you’ll find it here.
Just as beautiful in the fall, as in the summer, the ivy wall turns all shades of fiery red and orange.
Definitely add this to your list of must sees on your Marais walking tour. Or take a look at our nearby apartments and make this part of your daily commute.
Marais Place des Vosges apartment
Marais Vosges apartment
Marais Saint Paul Loft
Paris is full of farm fresh produce markets, butchers and fromageries, but there are only a few places where you get the feeling of quality combined with community infused in local farmer’s markets of French villages outside of the capital. Investor Cédric Naudon took it upon himself to create such an environment in Paris, where the best of design and gastronomy combine for a quintessential Parisian experience: quality and aestheticism in all things. Naudon purchased and redesigned, in collaboration with renowned creatives including chefs, artists and industrial designers, a collection of 20+ store fronts in Paris’ 3rd arrondissement that will be home to a group of artisanal entertainment, design shops, and food stores.
Located on rue Vertbois, the zonehas been dubbed La Jeune Rue. Opening in two rounds, the first this spring and the second later this fall, the shops are clustered together on the main street and will span down the cross street, rue Volta, and up rue Notre Dame de Nazareth.
Wishing to expand from his first restaurant endeavor, Le Sergent Recruteur, on the Île Saint-Louis, the project of La Jeune Rue snowballed from the one envisioned restaurant into a few, then a collection, and now a small movement. The buzz began at the beginning of the year with an exploratory press event in January and will certainly continue as visitors discover and return to see the new openings throughout the year.
Here is a list of locations and collaborators so far:
Check it out for a special and uniquely Parisian adventure around the corner from the Marais!